Today I’m going to construct a bra using the basic bra pattern I created in my last post.
First let’s talk about fabrics. For the cups and frame I will be using Duoplex. Duoplex is 100% polyester tricot fabric. It has a matte side and a shinny side. It’s a great fabric for beginner bra makers and for larger cup sizes because it is so supportive. It has no stretch in one direction and little mechanical give in the other direction.
For the back band the most common fabric used is Power Net. Power Net is made out of nylon and spandex and has a 4 way stretch. I use a pretty heavy weight Power Net where there is more stretch in one direction than in the other.
Before I cut out my fabric pieces. I need to mark the DOGS on my pattern. DOGS is an acronym for Direction of Greatest Stretch. So for the Duoplex the DOGS would be the direction with the mechanical give and for the Power Net it would be the direction with the most stretch.
The DOGS run horizontal on the top cup, vertical on the bottom cup and the frame, and horizontal on the back band.
When laying your fabric out, make sure you check the DOGS and lay your pattern pieces accordantly.
Once your pattern pieces are cut out, it time to sew them together.
In lingerie making, seam allowances are usually a quarter of an inch. The way I make sure I’m sewing at a quarter of an inch is by setting my stitch width at is widest to move the needle all the way to the right. Using a magnetic seam guide and a ruler, I make sure the seam guide is placed a quarter of an inch from the needle.
Place your two bottom cups right sizes together and sew at a quarter of an inch.
Press the seam open and top stitch on both sides of the seam.
Now place the top cup and bottom cup right sides together and sew at a quarter of an inch.
Press the seam open and top stitch on both sides of the seam.
Take your frame piece and your back band and place them right sides together and sew at a quarter of an inch.
Keep the seam together and press it towards the frame and top stitch the seam down.
Sew the cups into the frame.
Sew the underwire channeling to the cup seam. Make sure you leave a little tail on both sides of the cup and start sewing about a half of an inch away from beginning of the seam and stop a half an each from the end. This will give you room to attach the elastics in the next step.
I’m using half an inch picot elastic for the band. Attach the band elastic to the outside of the bra with the plush side facing up and the picot edge pointing towards the cup using a zig zag stitch.
I’m using 3/8” picot elastic for the underarm edge. Attach underarm edge elastic to the outside of the bra with the plush side facing up and the picot edge pointing towards the cup using a zig zag stitch.
When you get to the channeling, tuck it out of the way so you don’t accidentally sew over it.
I’m using decorative elastic for the neckline. Attach the decorative elastic to the outside of the bra with the decorative edge pointing towards the cup using a zig zag stitch.
When you get to the channeling, tuck them out of the way so you don’t sew over them.
With a pair of duckbill scissors, trim the fabric behind the elastic to reduce bulk.
Mark a line about an eighth of an inch below the neckline edge on the underwire channeling. Use the mark to tack the channeling closed and cut off the excess.
Fold the band elastic over to the inside of the bra and sew it down with a three step zig zag.
Fold the underarm edge elastic over to the inside of the bra and sew it down with a three step zig zag.
When you get to the channeling, tuck it out of the way so you don’t accidentally sew over it.
Fold the neckline edge trim over to the inside of the bra and sew it down with a three step zig zag.
When you get the channeling, move them into position and sew over them to tack them in place.
Now it time to top stitch the underwire channeling. From the outside of the bra, top stitch around the cup staying an eighth of an inch away from the cup seam.
From the inside of the bra, top stitch around the outside of the underwire channeling. Stitch about an eighth of an inch away from the edge.
Now it’s time to assemble the straps. I have cut two strap elastics 20 inches long. Weave the strap elastic through the slider and secure it with a straight stitch.
Slide on the ring and with the plush side of the strap elastic facing up, weave the elastic through the slider again.
Attach the assembled strap the back band by keeping the elastic straight while moving the Power Net under the elastic as you sew with a stretch stitch.
Attach the strap to the cups by pulling the strap extension through the ring and stitching it down with a straight stitch.
Now it’s time to attach the hook and eye. With the inside of the bra facing you, the eyes go on the left side facing out and hooks go on the right side facing in.
Attach the eyes with a straight stitch across as far away from the eyes as possible. Pivot and make about three stitches. Pivot again and stitch across back to the other side. Pivot one more time and sew back to the beginning. The metals of the eyes are sewn into the fabric so make sure you don’t get too close or you will break your needle.
Attach the hooks with a straight stitch with the hooks facing up so they don’t get caught in the feed dogs. Once you get to the end backstitch all the way to the beginning and stitch forward again to make sure it’s secured.
All that’s left to do is insert the underwire. One end of the underwire is shorter than the other. Insert the underwire into the underwire channeling leading with the shorter end.
Trim off the excess channeling and try on your bra. If the bra is wearable, you can tack the channeling closed.
This was just a quick walk through on how to construct a basic bra, if you need more detailed instructions on bra sewing and how to identify and address any fit issues, I highly recommend Beverly Johnson’s Craftsy course, Sewing Bras: Construction & Fit available on Bluprint. Link is in the description down below.
Leave a Reply